NOLA and the South

I took another trip to the French Quarter today, and I went into the State Museum of Louisiana at New Orleans, as well as the National World War II and Confederate Civil War Museums. I really felt like I needed to replenish the history loving personality that drove my degree. Well I learned so much about the different aspects of New Orleans that I have a lot to say about this city and its relationship to the rest of the south.

If you were to ask any New Orleanian if they were a southerner, they would probably tell you know, they are a New Orleanian. The people of NOLA don't have southern accents, conservative views on national politics, and it is probably the most accepting city of different cultures, sexual orientations, races, and religions of any of the southern cities. One of the main reasons that there is such a difference between NOLA and the rest of the south, even a difference between NOLA and the rest of Louisiana, is primarily because NOLA has always been a port city. Being a port city, New Orleans was on the cusp of the cutting edge, the avant garde, and the politically different. I mean one can see this in that there is a clear difference between those who identify as Creole and as African American, or even those who are a WASP and those who are Cajun. Since its founding in 1718 as a French port settlement, New Orleans has accepted all kinds of people, from pirates to French Quebecois fleeing British Canada, to Gays and African Americans. These people are pretty resilient to new types of people moving in and out of their city. The husband of the deacon helping with our program said to us "the people here don't care what you do, how you do it, or where you're from, as long as you're not boring."

Where am I going with this, well I am trying to say that while New Orleans resembles a southern city, in how it handles politics, social hierarchy. The people are fundamentally different in terms of how they tolerate all that happens in their city, they have a style about them, they are half implants, and full of the saying "Laissez Les Bon Temps Rouler." I almost feel as though when they hear someone say it from the outside, it gets annoying, because they know deep inside that they do truly live that saying. Style is an important thing, and having fun is the second most important, coming very close to eating and food. New Orleanians take pride in the fact that they have a massive food culture, extending far beyond the new "foodie" movements happening up north. Food has always been engrained who the New Orleanians know themselves as.

Much of the business and politics happening in New Orleans happens at social functions and at food events, Mardi Gras Krewes hold more power in this city as a social order then any other in the United States. I learned at the State Museums, that Krewes were formed back in the 1700's by the higher ups of NOLA as a form of Nobility to greet those of noble blood from other countries. Having what are called Rex Kings, or kings for a day, who have a Rex court and all, they celebrate their rule on the two days before Mardi Gras, but are selected after January 6th when the season before lent begins. These Krewes became popular as social organizations of the higher classes of NOLA, later forming as social groups throughout the city. Then around 1809 the African American and Creole of NOLA being angry from being left out of these pretentious organizations formed the order of the Zulu, which was intentionally mocking the Rex Krewes, but now hold just as much significance as the Rex Krewes. These Krewes hold parties throughout the year trying to gain more and more influence from the politics and business types of the upper echelons of NOLA society, (essentially if you want to be elected in NOLA, you need to schmooze to the Krewes.)

New Orleans society and politics is basically backwards from what one thinks they know about southern society, here just because you have money doesn't mean you have power in this city. Here a krewe can rule the city merely because they have a lot of affluence in the city, and they have many members throughout the city. I think in many ways that is what keeps drawing me to the city, everyday I have to learn something new about how the this city functions, because it is unlike anywhere I have ever been. Anything I have ever learned about society from the north, is all thrown through a loop here in NOLA, nothing makes sense sometimes, because they seem to do everything with their own style and personality.

Well I must end this post about NOLA for now. So until next time.

Peace!